La Navidad y La Feria de Cali

Cali is an interesting city. For tourists it is not one of the most popular spots. It has some rough edges and a lot of character, for me and Mere it was easy to make ourselves right at home.

Christmas in Cali is celebrated on Christmas Eve so we decided with our wonderful friends at the hostal the we would do the same. We put together a huge meal for 13 people. It consisted of pork with an amazing sweet and sour sauce, chicken with a creamy mushroom sauce, beef with another savory muchroom sauce (they all had very fancy names but I cant remember them), pasta salad, mashed potatoes, salad, rice, and for desert tiramisu (however its spelled) and a coffee sauce on top.

The meal was amazing and everyone enjoyed themselves it was the closest I could get to that wonderful love filled holiday feeling. Now Chrismas Day is when Cali residents begin La Feria.

Everyone in the Hostal was gathering energy that evening because there was rumors of chaos on the streets. Tim (fellow traveler) surprised us by coming down in his Batman outfit which he apparantly travels with. Then Richie appeared with a Welsh flad and Dave busted out the Colombian flag. We decided we were ready to hit the streets.

Now I dont know how I could possibly describe La Feria de Cali but I will try. Just imagine its what I say times 100. The streets were overflowing with people, cars cruised at about 10 miles per hour not only to avoid the crowd or the people randomly running through the streets to bang on the windows and just cause utter chaos but to enjoy the spectacle as well.

We created quite a spectacle of our own. We were a mob of 10 or so foreigners with 2 huge capes and a Batman shaking kids hands and running in circles. Another element that add to the already out of control ambiance were the cans of spray foam and bags of flour that every third person had. You never knew where it was coming from but there seemed to be a never ending spray over everyone and everything with intermitant extreme battles where you find yourself with a face full of foam.

The night continued. Our group grew and shank. We ended up at a clud where we danced the night away, Salsa of course. For Cali being the capital of Salsa there really is no other way to dance. I am now officialy a beginning and think I am making good progress.

The rest of the rest of the week is full of event. The cabalgata, a parade of hundreds of horses inaugurates the week long festival, a miss cali pageant, Concerts, contests, beer gardens and happiness. The little team of travelers grew quite close over the week and it was sad for me and when I decide it was time to say good bye.

I left Cali to roam other parts of Colombia. Mere chose to stay and I dont blame her. So for those who havent yet definitely check her blog to read her stories. Anyways I said good-bye to Cali´s beauty of all kinds and headed back up north or really east.

A little fun at a bus stop

Well I dont know if I have written about this little event yet but before I jump into Cali I gotta share this little story.

Thursday Dec 20th I am sitting by myself in the bus terminal in Pitalito. It is 4pm and I have three hours until by bus leaves to Cali. I am sitting and reading but not quite so interesting book and glancing around every minute to see my surroundings. I notice that there is a large population of young kids running around and playing. Before long one of the kids wanders over and peers over my shoulder to see the book. Within litterally 15 seconds and I mean 15 seconds I found myself surrounded on all sides by about 20 young boys 7 to 11 years old and 4 girls timidly looking on from the outside.

Instantly the questions began, ¨What are you reading?¨¨Is it is egnlish?¨¨Where are you from¨¨Where are you going¨ And so on and so on. I had to slow them down becuase I was getting about 4 questions at a time. These kids entertained me better than any book could have. One of the younger ones Ivan decided to attach himself to me and did not leave my side the entire time. From the outside I am sure it looked something lije a beehive. The kids would swarm around me and some would branch of run around the terminal and play while others gathered with curiousity to see what all the fuss was about.

We developed a few fun games. They loved me to read paragraphs from my book. None of them knew a single word in english but they would listen in complete silence until I would stop and they would laugh and urge me to read more. Another fun game was to take turns trying on my backpack and proving there stregth. It was the funniest thing to watch this little 3 foot kids put on my back that covered more than 3/4 their body.

By the time my bus had arrived I knew all of their names, ages, number of family members and favorite things to do around Pitalito. I had been invited to stay at all of their houses and meet their families but I had to decline. They helped me load my bag on the bus and then to my surprise stood in a single file line to each shake my hand and tell me they would miss me. I bet you can imagine how much I loved it.

Pictures from all over

Medellín in all its glory
Here is Rocio and I riding the Metro Cable over Medellín




Here we have the wonderful view form Guatapé

La Piedra.
The next picture is for my mom I know how she loves cute little houses. This one was in Salento

Me, Debbie and Laura in Salento
Gladis and me at the top of Acaime reservation in Valle de Cocora

The little town of San Agustin
More of San Agustin

Medellín and More

Medellín was a wonderful place. We stayed there for four days and each one was filled with adventure. I enjoyed the days more than the nights though everything will be missed with fondness. Rocio and I got to spend a lot of time together and have become very close. I still have yet to have met up with Mere adventure has called us elsewhere but we have plans for Christmas.

Rocio and I got to understand Medellín more and more as the days went buy. One day we went to el Museo Antioquia. They had a whole section for Botero, a famous Colombian artist famous for los gordos (fat people). After the Museum Rocio, Debbie, and another friend Mark all of who I am curretnly traveling with, went to ride the cable metro that runs over the city. Since the city is on a hill the cable line, like a lift at a mountain ski resort, carries you up the hill to three different points. It was a magical ride, the city really is a magical place. It is so full of so many different elements.

On the way down we saw what looked like a horrible accident. As we left the station to see what was going on my heart stopped. Through all the soldiers I was looking at two dead bodies. It took me a few seconds to realize it was staged as a demonstration to educate the public on safety with motorcycles. Then I realized all the soldiers were 15 and the bodies were moving.

The next day I spent with just Rocio. We headed in the metro to the cemetary where Pablo Escabar lies and paid our respects. Then we headed back up the cable metro for a day view. On the way up I noticed that the roofs of all the metal houses were covered with rocks. I soon realized that the rocks were used to hold down the roofs so the wind doesn´t blow them over.

We approached the last stop at the top and got off to eat and explore. When we looked around our instant feeling was ¨here is Colombia¨ It was one of the poorer neighborhoods of Medellín but by far one of the richest full of culture and enjoyment. It was a day I will not forget.

Another day worth remember was our trip to Guatapé. Mark joined me and Rocio for this little adventure. None of us had any idea for sure where we were going but we had heard it was worth it. As la Piedra came into view we knew where we were headed. It is this enourmous rock that shoots out of the ground as if trying to escape. At the base of the rock are shops and restuarants and we feasted on the view. It looked like a scene from water world a complex maze of land and water. Immense and overwhelmingly amazing.

Mark and I chose to climb the rock while Rocio waited at the bottom. The stairway seemed to be carved into a tiny crack in the rock. It was 702 steps to the top and I touched everyone. The view fromthe top was even more incredible. I could have spent many more hours than the one I actually spent up there. Mark left me on top ranting in spanish with a family and on the way down I made two other friends Camilo and Milton who ended up givign the three of us a ride back into Medellín.

That is the thing with Colombia every bus ride or place I go I make a new friend. We share our stories, praise Colombia and discuss the world. At the end we part ways and wish each other luck. Sometimes we trade emails and sometimes they end up inviting you into their home and taking you to see whichever area you are in.

So I have decided to stay in Colombia for a bit longer. I had been thinking about it for awhile. From Medellín a small group of us travellers headed to the bus stop where I was reunited with some Argentine friends that Mere and I had met in the south of Costa Rica, Nico and Laura, who I had been writing ever since we met. (dont forget that Mere is having some crazy adventures of her own) SO we all head together to Salento where we have a beautiful 5hour hike through El valle de Cocora. Breathtakingly incredible. And as I have been doing pictures of everything will come as soon as I can find a CD burner. From Salento Debbie, Rocio Mark and I made our way to San Agustin where the incredible time continued.

This is where I decided to stay in Colombia. Mere and I were chatting on line and she asked what I thought about staying a little longer. It did not take long for me to tell her I had been thinking the same thing. It is a good thing becuase I decided to lose my Debit card and only source of money. My bank is not the most accomodating and my wonderful wonderful most amazing mother is helping. Mere has been a great support as well. It would be so easy at home but I am in Colombia. My card actually was returned to me two days later but after it had been cancelled.

Though I have been staying in good spirits I mean hey I am in Colombia for cryin out loud. So I have much more to see and I have made some great friends here in San Agustin that live in Bogota who I will meet up with again. Yesterday I said good bye to my travel partners who headed off to Ecuador reluctantly without me. Ha Ha.

Rocio and Debbie are my two new wonderful freinds that have made a powerful impact in my life. They have proven to be strong wonderful friends the world over. I will miss them until we are reunited in Argentina. If I can ever find myself to leave Colombia.

Lost in a little fishing town

For some reason we just cant leave any place that we get to. Most recently I had found myself stuck unable to leave the most comfortable and welcoming little fishing town named Taganga. Our original plan was to visit Santa Marta the neighboring big city. We had heard that the best thing to do is stay in Taganga and catch the bus to Santa Marta. I think I ended up spending a total of two hours in Santa Marta.

We stayed at the hostal Casa de Felipe. The workers were all women about my age who spent their time cleaning up, teasing the guests and learning everyones names. I quickly fell in love with them.

Our first night we got put in the best room with a private kitchen and bathroom and no bunkbeds, thank God. We shared our room with four very cool and laid back guys Giddy from New Zealand, Shane from Australian, Sebastiane from Sweden and Andy from the US. We had a balcony that overlooked the overwhelming landscape of Taganga. Taganga is a little bay surrounded my little mountains so the water is incredibly calm. From our balcony you could see it all looking down on the little town and seeing every movement of the sun.

The people of Taganga are incredibly welcoming with the biggest smiles youve ever seen. Everyone was eager to talk to you and share whatever they and you had to share and the majority did not even ask for money. I quickly made friends with the local vendors and a local musician Pipe that would share his new lyrics with me each day.

My first day Andy, Sebastiane and I headed over to the beach Playa Grande. The front beach is tiny since most of the shore is taken over by restuarants and boats. There are two ways to get to Playa Grande. You can take a boat for $2000 pesos equivelant to a little under $1.00 or you take take a small 15 min hike over one peak and down the other side to the beach. I opted for the hike everytime.

You walk through the main street where you make all your greetings to your newly aquainted friends and head up the edge of a mini mountain that lines the bay. On the way there are a few off trails to a smaller beach where the fisherman fish with a very large net that they pull in several times throughout the day. When you reach the peak and turning point to the downward slope you turn around. The view of Taganga is breathtaking as if you are flying over the little town looking down from the outside at the little goings on.

The otherside is just as breathtaking as you gaze down at the crystal water of Playa Grande. Though it is a packed beach full of friends and families I never once felt out of place. The beach is lined with restuarants and there seems to only be about four little huts there so everythings shuts down at 5pm for the day. The first day there I met my new travel partner, Rocio.

Rocio is from spain and was traveling with her boyfriend though he headed of to Venezuela now. We instantly hit is off. She had been waiting for a friend who could speak spanish since the majority of her trip had been spent speaking english with the other travels. Her personality is one of the few that can compete with the loudness that Mere and I tend to create.

We held a little party in our room that night that carried on through jok telling, age guessing and getting to know you games. Out parents would be proud. The next morning however we all woke up bright and early to begin our ''culture day.'' We loaded on a little buseta to Santa Marta where we got a another bus to take us to Aracataca, the birth place of Garbriel Garcia Marquez. At the little town of Aracataca about 1 hour away.

The little town of Aractaca I found out gets about one or two groups of gringo visitors a month. We were welcomed in by every single resident there. I am now and official member of the local library. A couple of the younger kids ended of spending the day with us as we toured around the little town tasting the arepas and seeing the wonderful little world where Gabriel Garcia Marquez grew up.

We made our way back to Santa Marta after everyone was thoroughly cultured out. On the bus back however we were in for another little cultural surprise. Sitting on the bus Mere and I were on one side of the isle and our friend John was on the other. Every bus has a driver and a guy who basically keeps the passangers in order and takes the money. Mere and I paid and John handed the guy 20,000 pesos (the ride is 5,000) The guy took it and handed John the change then hesitated and told John he would not have enough change for everyone so he handed John a 20 and John gave him back the 15 he had recieved as change. We instantly noticed that it was a different 20,000 bill and rather torn up. A passenger near by informed us that the bill itself was actually a fake bill.

I have deducted at this point that the guy had probably recieved the bill earlier learned the error of his ways and thought that John would be the perfect person to pawn it off too. I dont think he expected us to catch on so soon. So the next 20 minutes of the bus ride was spent with John and the help of Rocio and Marcello trying to argue with the guy to get Johns money back.

We ended up stopping on the way back and they deboarded and spoke to a group of soldiers on the road who deamed John the winner and the guy reluctantly gave John a better 20.

The next day was another early morning where I left extra early to go explore Parque Tayrona. I was planning on spending the day there and returning that night. Everyone else was going to spend the night out there so they left later then me and met me out there. The hike in was beautiful and the beaches themselves were spectactular. The water however was very violent and you couldnt do much but stand and let the water knock you around. I returned that night and was glad I did becuase I got sick later that night.

I decided it was dehydration becuase my other roomates had gone through the exact same thing. I recovered by the next day and spent the next few days making the hike to Playa Grande with my book, my towel and my water.

Many of the group returned that following day from Parque Tayrona minus Mere and two other traveling friends. They ended up staying two more nights. While Mere was off exploring the wild lands of Parque Tayrona, *which you should check her blog about that cause I dont have much, I spent my las three days becoming a part of a wonderful family.

I met this family becuase the kids would sell jewelry at the hostal at night. They welcomed me in there home and I spent almost every meal with them after that. It was an incredible experience. The mother Monica is from Argentina, she moved to Colombia about 25 years before to be with her husband who she is no longer with. She lives in Taganga with her 5 children, Cielogui 24 who just returned shortly befor from his mandatory service in the military, Carlos 18, Lucas 16, Yumanlli 13 and the only daughter Tayira 9 who never once took of her skates.

They welcomed in so graciously I felt instantly comfortable. It was so nice since I have been away from my family for so long. Cielgui taught me how to make some different kinds of bracelets and I have been practicing. One day we went to a smaller beach closer than Playa Grande where the fisherman fish and I got to help them pull the net into the shore. It was a lot of fun.

Eventually everyone turned up from Parque Tayrona and we began to plan our next moves. Mere was to head of to a smaller town nearby and Rocio and I were heading to Medellín. Our plan was to meet back up in Medellín but as I have learned everything can change at any minute.

Cartegena

How else can I describe Cartegena expect that it has more character than I could have ever imagined a city. As I would walk out on the street in the morning my senses would be overwhelmed. I would first pick up a huge slice of watermellon from the guy on the corner. There is music playing from every house and every business. The plaza down the block is filled with people yelling and dancing and making whatever comotion they can.

A few highlights of the city-

• Buying three Mangos for $0.50 cents and devouring each juicy one at a time.

• The smell of every possible fried little snack you could think of that filled your nostrils in the streets.

• The beautiful streets of the historic neighborhood where I could have gotten lost for hours through the maze and never felt at all in need of finding my way back.

• Drinking a glass of wine in the Plaza de San Felipe surrounded by street performers eager to play thier music. All of which were extremely talented.

• Scaling the wall around the historic center and getting a beautiful view of the intricate workings of the buildings.
  

• Getting asked for the 100th time if I wanted to buy a plastic bowl or a crazy hat or a pack of gum.

• Walking into the plaza at the corner of our street and seeing people dancing to the blaring music while street vendors work hard at their little stoves to send wafts of street meet through the air as enticing bait.

• The store at the corner that closes its doors at night but allows locals to stand around the corner and buy beer through the bars.

• Walking through the choas of the local day market full of fish, any kind of meat, spices, fruits, plastic nick nacks and not a single foreigner in sight.

• Getting woken up in the morning by our german friend Thomas with a bucket of water.
  

Of course as you could guess there are many many more that I could note. Just like every stop on this trip I need to just find a stopping point and move on.